This is the time of year when families turn to thinking about where to go and what to do on this summer’s vacation. This year a serious factor that looms is the price of gas. “How can we afford to do anything?” Despite that fact, there are ways of having what could be one of the best vacations in memory, simply by limiting road time and embarking on a “great adventure” in history.
Saskatchewan’s history is chock full of intriguing tales that leave you craving to investigate the story even more; to explore the country to the north of Lloydminster, along the North Saskatchewan River ,visiting the historic sites where the land reeks with history.
The 1885 North West Rebellion is only one prime example that rises out of our past. Erupting in the spring of 1885, it resulted in monumental consequences for indigenous neighbour people and the nation as a whole. It inexplicably attracts us toward embarking on an unforgettable “great adventure” searching out what is our heritage.
The spring of 1885 saw Canada’s prairies embroiled in a violent uprising of both First Nations and Métis dissidents in central Saskatchewan. This uprising played out in three distinct segments, in concert with each other but not directly connected. The Métis assembled under Louis Riel, concentrating at Batoche, while unrest escalated amongst the Cree in two separate locations, at Fort Battleford, with a second insurrection exploding at the small community of Frog Lake, north of Lloydminster.
The adventure I suggest is touring west-central Saskatchewan, exploring this spellbinding, oft violent period of our local history. Discover for yourself how the final days of Canada’s “Wild West” came about.
The journals of many of the militia participants in the 1885 Rebellion describe how it became abundantly clear to them this was their last opportunity to have their “great adventure.” Forever gone were the massive herds of buffalo grazing on the tall, waving prairie grass, soon to be replaced by the homesteading Barr Colonists. To a young man in 1885, this “last chance” must not slip away, so they willingly enlisted to serve.
To the Cree it was a last stand defence against the overbearing colonial-style government that was bent on confining them to depressing reserves of poor land. They saw little good in the inevitable. Their future would be squalor, lacking of pride and independence, which had been their way of life since time immemorial. They must negotiate with the white man’s government, but to do that they must exhibit strength and that meant standing strong.
Can I entice you to come and begin your adventure with a visit to the Frog Lake Historic Site, just an hour’s drive north of Lloydminster? At this historic site there is a stone monument guarding a tidy row of crosses commemorating the nine victims murdered on April 2, 1885. Next to these graves lies a North West Mounted Policeman’s grave, David Cowan, killed during the subsequent siege of Ft. Pitt.
South of the historic site, just across a quiet country road exists a walking trail featuring a dozen story boards explaining the circumstances of the time. In the nearby underbrush, one can still search out some of the original basements of the 1885 community and still sense the foreboding aura that may linger in the air.
From Frog Lake return east and travel south of the Onion Lake First Nation on Highway 17 the junction with Highway 797. Turn east on this road for approximately 16 kilometres to the road sign indicating “ Fort Pitt” then six kilometres south on a gravel road to Fort Pitt Provincial Historic Park.
Like Frog Lake this historic park has recently seen significant enhancements, so expect to spend some time exploring this site. There were actually two forts built over the years, the first hosting many of the early celebrities, men such as, HBC Factor John Rowan Sr., explorer John Palliser and artist Paul Kane. The second fort, a few meters to the west of the first was destined to become an integral part of the tragic events in 1885.
Your next step travelling eastward is the Frenchman Butte Heritage Centre, open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends in June, then daily in July and August. Located right in the hamlet overlooking the river, this outstanding attraction received recognition in 2013 through a heritage magazine readers’ poll as the best small town museum in Saskatchewan. It maintains a significant collection of artifacts housed in their complex of buildings while Log Cabin Teahouse offers light lunches and non-alcoholic beverages.
Exploring Big Bear’s Trail of 1885 by RV is an ideal mode to choose, conveniently camping in the museum’s adjacent heritage RV park and using it as your centre of operations. This RV facility features water, sewer and electrical hook-ups. There is so much to see and do in the surrounding district that spending several days exploring the area is an easy thing.
Make a reservation by calling the Frenchman Butte Heritage Centre’s teahouse at 306-344-4478. Make sure you have a chat with the friendly teahouse staff to discover the other popular features of the area worth visiting. Many of these attractions are unique, some being of an artistic variety while those of a historic nature rank as being unknown to the tourist, consequently they provide a true sense of “discovery” as you explore them.
For example, just a few kilometres to the northeast from the museum, is the Frenchman Butte National Historic Battle Site of 1885. This historic site features the still visible, defensive rifle pits of the Cree warriors on the north side with its commemorative monument overlooking the valley, easily attainable on short hiking trails leading to and from the day-use parking area.
The militia positions across the valley feature a monument as well, but since the soldiers of the Alberta Field Force were advancing in an attack, they endured the battle without discernible fortifications. Features of the militia side of the battle have yet to be developed, but the field gun’s firing position is identified.
Situated northeast of Frenchman Butte about an hour’s drive north on Highway 21 is the scene of the last military action fought on Canadian soil; a violent skirmish between Steele’s Scouts and Cree warriors at Steele Narrows on Loon Lake. This provincial historic park is about 10 kilometres west of the town of Loon Lake and features a hill-top monument and descriptive information signs. This site strives to reach the developmental level of the other 1885 sites and is worthy of a visit to appreciate the viciousness of the conflict between the defending Cree warriors and the attacking contingent of only 47 Steele’s Scouts.
I recommend that preparation for your adventure should begin in your local library. Your travel adventure for the coming summer will require some research since the virulent details of these events may influence your itinerary. A few books worth reading are: Sam Steele and the North West Rebellion by Wayne F. Brown.
This tells the story in a condensed way while reserving a chapter explicitly for providing directions to the explorer.
Blood Red the Sun by William Cameron, is a personal account by a massacre survivor, and Loyal until Death by Stonechild and Waiser is another source.
A superb source of visitor information is the traveller’s guide magazine Circle the Northwest. Phone the town office of St. Walburg at 1-306-248 3232, as well as the museum’s teahouse for a free copy. Magazines are also available at the News-Optimist.
I’d also recommend searching the Internet for Frenchman Butte Museum. You can also contact the Frenchman Butte Heritage Center at 1-306-344-4448 or president, Tom Hougham at 1-306-825-2246.
This coming summer can be one of your most memorable vacations ever, stepping back in time discovering how rich our Canadian heritage really is, truly a chance to embark on your own “great adventure.”
