It’s hard to believe. Fall is nigh and it’s time to start planning for spring. I’m talking about planting bulbs. It’s truly an act of faith when you can put a somewhat dried-up bulb in the ground in the fall, watch the leaves on the trees drop and then expect flowers to develop in the spring from seemingly nothing.
There are hundreds of different species and cultivars of bulbs (and bulb-like plants) available to Prairie gardeners. More than just boring red or yellow, there are tulips with fringed edges, with splashes of green, doubles, multi-colour, striped, tall, dwarf, early spring, late spring and more. Beyond tulips, there are lilies, ornamental onions (Alliums), squill, striped squill, grape hyacinth, snowdrops, some fritillary species (but not crown imperial fritillary), iris and more. Sadly, crocus, narcissus and daffodils are not reliably hardy and hyacinths and paperwhites are definitely not.
Size matters. Bulbs – particularly tulips, daffodils and lilies – are graded and priced according to size and so expect to pay more for premium-sized bulbs. Purchase the largest specimens you can afford. Large bulbs mean vigorous plants with large flowers. Avoid damaged, moldy or soft bulbs.
Plant your bulbs as soon as purchased in a sunny, weed-free, well-drained location. Snow cover is important to reduce the damaging effects of winter. Planting depth matters. Regardless of species or cultivar, bulbs should be planted at least three times deeper than they are tall. For example, if the bulb is five centimetres tall, make the hole about 15 centimetres deep. Plant slightly deeper in sandy soil. Initially, dig the hole 5 – 10 centimetres deeper than required. Add some bonemeal, bloodmeal or 11-52-0 to the loosened soil and put some of the soil back to make it the proper depth. Place the bulbs, pointed end up, in the bottom of the hole. Cover with the remaining amended soil.
Plant bulbs in clumps of five or more for a natural effect and to increase the visual impact of a massed planting. You can also plant mixtures such as tulips together with ornamental onions or lilies, extending the blooming period of your patch and to add interest. Plant the largest bulbs at their proper depth, cover with soil and plant the next largest at a shallower level (e.g. plant lilies at 25 centimetres and tulips at 15 centimetres).
Small species and cultivars (squill, grape hyacinth, snake’s head fritillary and Tulipa tarda) should be planted near the edge of your border or near a path where they can be seen. Larger species such as tulips, lilies, and ornamental onions can be planted further back to be admired from a distance. Some small species like Scilla or Tulipa tarda can be planted under low growing junipers. The juniper gives them extra protection over the winter. After they die down, the ground isn’t bare so you don’t have to worry about disturbing them during the summer by planting something else to fill the space.
One version of a Chinese proverb is: “When you have only two pennies left in the world, buy a loaf of bread with one, and a lily with the other.” I say throw caution to wind and spend both pennies on lilies! Besides, you can always eat cake.
— This column is provided courtesy of the Saskatchewan Perennial Society (SPS) (www.saskperennial.ca; hortscene@yahoo.com). Check out our Bulletin Board or Calendar for upcoming garden information sessions, workshops and tours: Sept. 19, Labour & Learn (fall clean-up), Saskatoon Forestry Farm Park and Zoo; Sept. 19, Gardening 101 – Part III: Fall, University of Saskatchewan.
